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March 31, 2010
Scent of a Woman, My Journey in Perfume, a Beginning
March 30, 2010
Angel Perfume Births an Angelic Recipe Selection
(This feature originally was commissioned for, and appeared in www.BaseNotes.net, the foremost fragrance periodical from the UK. Subsequently, the feature was nominated for the 2011 Canadian Fragrance Feature of the Year, online media)
Ah iconic Angel Perfume - what a delight to wear - so delicious you want to drink it and men want to slurp your skin...or just about! Just consider the scent notes: Top Note: Bergamot, Mandarin Middle Note: Passion Fruit, Peach, Apricot Base Note: Patchouli, Vanilla, Chocolate, Caramel - These are the fragrance notes of Angel as per perfume descriptions on many a scent retailer site and what fragrance counter representatives will tell you. There is also, on some perfume blogs, further references to this fragrance for women contains a blend of vanilla, caramel, sandalwood, patchouli, blackcurrant, fresh citrus, melons, peaches and plums. What is agreed on, across the board, is that this is angelic perfume that you almost want to lick off whoever is wearing it or drink it straight from the bottle. To say it’s for the hedonist is no understatement – nor to suggest it takes it’s fragrance notes from home comforts and recipe books on classic desserts – is far off the mark. This is a fragrance for the food fanatic – and the one who eats dessert first.
When Thierry Mugler launched his famed Angel perfume in 1992 the love affair between this fragrance and its consumer devotees was like most great love affairs: instant. Call it love at first breath or leastways, love at first inhalation. Moreover, better than the average, ‘best’ love affair, the adoration was as long lasting as it was immediate. Conversely, among fragrance writers, the love affair was not quite instant. Sweet, candied perfumes have a way of not immediately garnering respect; creating fruity, sweet, ‘foodie’ perfume isn’t too esteemed and few perfumes manage to reach an exalted level when they go that route. But in time, with the leathery patchouli accents counterpointing the sweet froth within, Angel got the nod from the industry as well as the ladies who lunch. Not to mention, the aesthetic branding of the perfume (in blue glass star decanters) that are (how green is that and all before green was in…) refillable captured an enduring following. What’s not to love about a perfume that makes you smell like a candied siren and comes in a beautiful bottle that is less expensive because you can refill it?
Given the hype and loyalty Angel receives, it’s easy to explain how why almost two decades later, despite the plethora of perfumes on the market in an industry that is beyond burgeoning with new blooms year in, year out, Angel continues to dominate the ‘best selling’ perfume on countless perfume sites?
In his own words, Mugler is quoted on the Angel website, concerning his offspring, Angel: “This is a romance that is not all fluff.” Truth is, who could resist the sweet floral that somehow delivered candied notes in a fresh way?
Although the components of Angel are a closely guarded secret, Angel is renown for its gourmand-inspired sensibility, rife with essences of honey, chocolate and caramel. Blended with notes of vanilla, patchouli and sandalwood, Angel is definitely a romantic fragrance but one that takes itself seriously. In other words, it takes playful elements of welcome sweetness: chocolate, vanilla, caramel, berries, honey and citrusy-sweet bergamot which, like and fuses them into a bouquet of heady delights. As one Angel representative confided with me, ‘if you like food or are seduced by desserts and all things gourmet, this perfume is for you’. For a pastry chef who is also in love with fragrance, it isn’t then, a great leap to take Angel as a starting point and inspiration to create some ‘Angel-inspired’ recipes.
You cannot fathom how magical a trio of classic black teas such as English Breakfast, Assam and Orange Peko become when they’re coupled with some chocolate notes and a sweep of orange zest. This is dessert in a cup - an extravagant, outrageously, decadent cuppa tea. This is a great tea to bring in a canister or pretty cello bag and a coloured tie as a gift or for serving to guests with spice cake, butter cookies, or a delicate pastry.
In a large bowl, toss the tea leaves, chocolate, orange zest and extracts.
Store in a tea tin.
To brew, use 1 1/2 teaspoon per cup or 3 tablespoons per 5-6 cup pot of tea.
Tender, chocolaty, and kissed with honey and the lightest hint of spice – this cake is queenly. Most honey cake recipes call for tea or coffee but coca-cola is my secret ingredient in those, and this new recipe. The fusion of mellow honey, pure cocoa, coca-cola, and a gentle wave of spice makes this sublime. This is a tall, moist, dark and wondrous cake. A dusting of cocoa or confectioners’ sugar is perfect or you can opt for a drizzle of melted bittersweet chocolate is the final touch.
In a food processor, add in the butter, oil, honey, white sugar, brown sugar and blend well about 30 seconds. Add in the eggs, vanilla, and coca cola and blend well another minute. Fold in the dry ingredients and blend about 2 minutes until smooth, stopping machine once or twice to insure that ingredients are all blended and not stuck at the bottom.
Fold in chocolate chips if using. Spoon or pour batter into prepared pan (s). Sprinkle with almonds. Place cake on baking sheet and bake until done, about 60-75 minutes until cake springs back when gently pressed with fingertips.(If baking in a spring form pan, bake the cake longer and slower or center will peak. It will also take about 20-30 minutes longer to bake).
Cool ten minutes before unmolding from pan.
While cake is baking, make the Ganache if opt to use that to glaze cake.
To make the Ganache, place the water or cream in a microwavable bowl and heat until bubbly, on high. Remove from the microwave and whisk in the chocolate and honey, whisking to blend until smooth and glossy. Refrigerate about 2-3 hours until it thickens but you can still spread it on the cake. If it is quite stiff, warm it slightly until you can drizzle it on the cake. You can also add 1-2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine to make it more pliable.
If not using Ganache, simply leave cake as is, or dust with confectioners' sugar, cocoa or drizzle on melted, semi-sweet chocolate.
Serves 12-16
Dark, bakery-style brownies with a shiny, bittersweet glaze, redolent of Earl Grey tea. If you want these thick, use a 7 by 11 inch pan; if you prefer them flatter and chewier, make them in a 9 by 13 inch pan. This brownie recipe captures the chocolate bergamot notes of Angel in a wholly decadent dessert.
Brownies
Bake until just set, about 30-40 minutes. Let brownies cool well before, using the parchment paper to assist, turn the brownies out onto parchment sheet on a work surface.
Meanwhile, for the Angel Ganache, prepare 1/3 cup very strongly brewed Earl Grey Tea. In a sauce pan, combine the tea, whipping cream and bring to a gentle boil. Fold in the chocolate, reduce the temperature and whisk to melt chocolate and mixture is smooth. Remove from the stove and place in a bowl. Chill 2-4 hours until almost solid. Then whisk in the butter. Spread on brownies.
Drizzle white chocolate over the dark icing, and dust on some Earl Grey Tea leaves and tiny rose petals. Refrigerate 30 minutes, then cut into squares to serve.
Makes 25-30 brownies
Blond ambition in a bar. Crème brûlée syrup, along with a layer of cheesecake get swirled into this golden, pecan and butterscotch chip blondie. With its caramel vanilla notes, and raspberries thrown in, it hits an ‘angelic’ high.
Crème Brûlée Topping
This will cool the mixture but it will also foam and bubble up quite significantly so take care. Once the bubbling subsides a bit, whisk the cream and butter thoroughly into the caramel.
Meanwhile, combine all ingredients for Cream Cheese White Chocolate Layer and blend well, a few minutes, in the food processor. Set aside.
For the blondies, in a saucepan, over very gentle heat, melt the butter and brown sugar together and cook until the sugar dissolves somewhat (5-8 minutes). Let cool. In the same (not washed) food processor bowl, blend the cooled sugar/butter mixture and add egg, blending well. Stir in flour, baking powder, salt, nuts and butterscotch or chocolate chips. Gently fold in raspberries.
Spread batter evenly, using a wet knife or spatula. Smoosh on cream cheese and then smoosh/ripple/mush in (anyway you can) the crème brûlée topping. Bake 22-27 minutes. Be careful not to overbake. Squares will seem set but might be slightly jiggly. Cool in refrigerator after they have cooled 30 minutes on counter. Cut in pan and serve chilled.
Makes 16-24 depending on size
When Thierry Mugler launched his famed Angel perfume in 1992 the love affair between this fragrance and its consumer devotees was like most great love affairs: instant. Call it love at first breath or leastways, love at first inhalation. Moreover, better than the average, ‘best’ love affair, the adoration was as long lasting as it was immediate. Conversely, among fragrance writers, the love affair was not quite instant. Sweet, candied perfumes have a way of not immediately garnering respect; creating fruity, sweet, ‘foodie’ perfume isn’t too esteemed and few perfumes manage to reach an exalted level when they go that route. But in time, with the leathery patchouli accents counterpointing the sweet froth within, Angel got the nod from the industry as well as the ladies who lunch. Not to mention, the aesthetic branding of the perfume (in blue glass star decanters) that are (how green is that and all before green was in…) refillable captured an enduring following. What’s not to love about a perfume that makes you smell like a candied siren and comes in a beautiful bottle that is less expensive because you can refill it?
Given the hype and loyalty Angel receives, it’s easy to explain how why almost two decades later, despite the plethora of perfumes on the market in an industry that is beyond burgeoning with new blooms year in, year out, Angel continues to dominate the ‘best selling’ perfume on countless perfume sites?
In his own words, Mugler is quoted on the Angel website, concerning his offspring, Angel: “This is a romance that is not all fluff.” Truth is, who could resist the sweet floral that somehow delivered candied notes in a fresh way?
Although the components of Angel are a closely guarded secret, Angel is renown for its gourmand-inspired sensibility, rife with essences of honey, chocolate and caramel. Blended with notes of vanilla, patchouli and sandalwood, Angel is definitely a romantic fragrance but one that takes itself seriously. In other words, it takes playful elements of welcome sweetness: chocolate, vanilla, caramel, berries, honey and citrusy-sweet bergamot which, like and fuses them into a bouquet of heady delights. As one Angel representative confided with me, ‘if you like food or are seduced by desserts and all things gourmet, this perfume is for you’. For a pastry chef who is also in love with fragrance, it isn’t then, a great leap to take Angel as a starting point and inspiration to create some ‘Angel-inspired’ recipes.
* * *
Four Angel Recipes
~ Chocolate Mandarin Angel Tea ~
~ Angel Honey Cake ~
~ Bergamot Angel Brownies with Earl Grey Ganache ~
~ Angel Crème Brûlée Blondies ~
* * *
Chocolate Mandarin Angel Tea
You cannot fathom how magical a trio of classic black teas such as English Breakfast, Assam and Orange Peko become when they’re coupled with some chocolate notes and a sweep of orange zest. This is dessert in a cup - an extravagant, outrageously, decadent cuppa tea. This is a great tea to bring in a canister or pretty cello bag and a coloured tie as a gift or for serving to guests with spice cake, butter cookies, or a delicate pastry.
- Zest of half an orange, finely minced and left to dry one hour
- 1/4 cup Assam tea leaves
- 1 cup English Breakfast or Orange Pekoe tea leaves
- 1/4 cup English Breakfast tea leaves
- 2 tablespoons finely ground milk chocolate
- 1/3 cup finely ground semi-sweet chocolate
- 3/4 teaspoon orange oil or tangerine oil (Boyajian’s brand*)
- 1 teaspoon pure orange extract (such as Nielsen Massey Vanilla Co.)
- 1 teaspoon, optional Nielsen Massey Chocolate Extract
In a large bowl, toss the tea leaves, chocolate, orange zest and extracts.
Store in a tea tin.
To brew, use 1 1/2 teaspoon per cup or 3 tablespoons per 5-6 cup pot of tea.
* * *
Angel Chocolate Velvet Honey Cake
Tender, chocolaty, and kissed with honey and the lightest hint of spice – this cake is queenly. Most honey cake recipes call for tea or coffee but coca-cola is my secret ingredient in those, and this new recipe. The fusion of mellow honey, pure cocoa, coca-cola, and a gentle wave of spice makes this sublime. This is a tall, moist, dark and wondrous cake. A dusting of cocoa or confectioners’ sugar is perfect or you can opt for a drizzle of melted bittersweet chocolate is the final touch.
- 2 3/4 cups all purpose flour
- ½ cup cocoa
- 1 tablespoon baking powder
- 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 1-2 teaspoons cinnamon
- ½ teaspoon cloves
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
- ½ cup vegetable oil
- 1 cup honey
- 1 cup white sugar
- ½ cup brown sugar
- 3 eggs
- 2 teaspoons pure vanilla
- 1 cup coca cola
- ½ cup, optional, coarsely chopped semi-sweet chocolate
- 1/3 cup slivered almonds, optional
- Confectioners’ sugar, or cocoa, or drizzled melted semi-sweet chocolate, or Ganache
- 1/2 cup water or heavy cream
- 1 cup coarsely chopped, semi-sweet chocolate (BEST quality you can find)
- 1 tablespoon honey
In a food processor, add in the butter, oil, honey, white sugar, brown sugar and blend well about 30 seconds. Add in the eggs, vanilla, and coca cola and blend well another minute. Fold in the dry ingredients and blend about 2 minutes until smooth, stopping machine once or twice to insure that ingredients are all blended and not stuck at the bottom.
Fold in chocolate chips if using. Spoon or pour batter into prepared pan (s). Sprinkle with almonds. Place cake on baking sheet and bake until done, about 60-75 minutes until cake springs back when gently pressed with fingertips.(If baking in a spring form pan, bake the cake longer and slower or center will peak. It will also take about 20-30 minutes longer to bake).
Cool ten minutes before unmolding from pan.
While cake is baking, make the Ganache if opt to use that to glaze cake.
To make the Ganache, place the water or cream in a microwavable bowl and heat until bubbly, on high. Remove from the microwave and whisk in the chocolate and honey, whisking to blend until smooth and glossy. Refrigerate about 2-3 hours until it thickens but you can still spread it on the cake. If it is quite stiff, warm it slightly until you can drizzle it on the cake. You can also add 1-2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine to make it more pliable.
If not using Ganache, simply leave cake as is, or dust with confectioners' sugar, cocoa or drizzle on melted, semi-sweet chocolate.
Serves 12-16
* * *
Angel Brownies with Earl Grey Ganache
Dark, bakery-style brownies with a shiny, bittersweet glaze, redolent of Earl Grey tea. If you want these thick, use a 7 by 11 inch pan; if you prefer them flatter and chewier, make them in a 9 by 13 inch pan. This brownie recipe captures the chocolate bergamot notes of Angel in a wholly decadent dessert.
Brownies
- ¼ cup steaming water
- 1 cup unsalted butter
- 8 ounces unsweetened chocolate
- 2 cups sugar
- 4 eggs
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- ¼ cup very strong brewed, Earl Grey Tea
- 1 cup whipping cream
- 1 ½ cups semi sweet chocolate chips
- 2 tablespoons corn syrup
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- ½ cup white chocolate, melted
- Earl Grey Tea Leaves
- Sweet Heart Rose petals
Bake until just set, about 30-40 minutes. Let brownies cool well before, using the parchment paper to assist, turn the brownies out onto parchment sheet on a work surface.
Meanwhile, for the Angel Ganache, prepare 1/3 cup very strongly brewed Earl Grey Tea. In a sauce pan, combine the tea, whipping cream and bring to a gentle boil. Fold in the chocolate, reduce the temperature and whisk to melt chocolate and mixture is smooth. Remove from the stove and place in a bowl. Chill 2-4 hours until almost solid. Then whisk in the butter. Spread on brownies.
Drizzle white chocolate over the dark icing, and dust on some Earl Grey Tea leaves and tiny rose petals. Refrigerate 30 minutes, then cut into squares to serve.
Makes 25-30 brownies
* * *
Angel Crème Brûlée Blondies
Blond ambition in a bar. Crème brûlée syrup, along with a layer of cheesecake get swirled into this golden, pecan and butterscotch chip blondie. With its caramel vanilla notes, and raspberries thrown in, it hits an ‘angelic’ high.
Crème Brûlée Topping
- 1 cup sugar
- 2-3 tablespoons water
- 1/3 cup whipping cream
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- Cream Cheese White Chocolate Layer
- 3 ounces white chocolate, melted
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 8 ounces cream cheese, softened
- 1 egg
- 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
- 3/4 cup unsalted butter
- 1 1/2 cups light brown sugar, firmly packed
- 2 eggs
- 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/8 teaspoon salt
- 1 cup coarsely chopped pecans or walnuts
- 1/2 cup butterscotch chips or semi-sweet chocolate chips
- ½- 1 cup frozen small raspberries
This will cool the mixture but it will also foam and bubble up quite significantly so take care. Once the bubbling subsides a bit, whisk the cream and butter thoroughly into the caramel.
Meanwhile, combine all ingredients for Cream Cheese White Chocolate Layer and blend well, a few minutes, in the food processor. Set aside.
For the blondies, in a saucepan, over very gentle heat, melt the butter and brown sugar together and cook until the sugar dissolves somewhat (5-8 minutes). Let cool. In the same (not washed) food processor bowl, blend the cooled sugar/butter mixture and add egg, blending well. Stir in flour, baking powder, salt, nuts and butterscotch or chocolate chips. Gently fold in raspberries.
Spread batter evenly, using a wet knife or spatula. Smoosh on cream cheese and then smoosh/ripple/mush in (anyway you can) the crème brûlée topping. Bake 22-27 minutes. Be careful not to overbake. Squares will seem set but might be slightly jiggly. Cool in refrigerator after they have cooled 30 minutes on counter. Cut in pan and serve chilled.
Makes 16-24 depending on size
Caution: Men Hate Incense
Men and Incense, Scent of a Protest
Men don't like incense. I bet you didn't know that. Actually, this is not necessarily true. There are men that do like incense. But as a rule, it seems men, or maybe it’s husbands, who don’t cotton to incense. It's like an irrational political stance – men don’t vote for incense as a matter of - how they've always voted: Democrat vs. Republican, Incense vs. No Incense (and no fountains, chimes, cats, or tofu). Frankly, I don’t even know why this is. It’s not about being um, not macho enough - that’s pretty old school- but show me a guy, a married guy, that likes incense, (not just permits it but likes it) and I will smoke a scone.
How do I know this? I was married for 22 years and although I didn't use incense in my married days, when I became unmarried I went hog wild on incense. Not patchouli and sandalwood which is lovely actually, but strawberry, coconut, cinnamon, apple blossom. Gorgeous, soothing scents. Sometimes I burn sage or lavender which is the obvious Go-To Incense but I find it a tad lemony, almost acidic so I tend to favor the fruit and vanilla incense options. Nothing you can equate with anything too cultural or off putting. Sort of like the spice route of the traders centuries ago, which makes sense - I'm a baker. But all in all, I gravitate to wonderful, harmonious, comforting scents no one could protest.
But at one point, I got so het about about incense I began giving it as gifts to all my women friends. I wanted to share my new world (singlehood and exotic new freedoms). My gal pals seemed happy at first and then? When I would replenish their incense, presuming in a few months’ time, they were out of incense, they seemed a little less then enthusiastic. Finally, one by one, each admitted their spouses ‘didn’t like incense’. Each one. Each different Tom, Dick and Harry. How. Is that even possible? I think it is because they just have this Husband Code that says a) men don’t do incense and b) even if they did, the fact that it is a foreign substance coming into their homes, courtesy of their wives’ friend makes them balk. It’s a guy thing. And how do I know this? Because I have two brothers, three sons, trained for years with umpteen French pastry chefs who were all men and dance with men at tango. I’ve known a lot of guys. I know that ‘scent’ falls into new age, gender bender stuff. I know- how silly: this is 2009. But we are dealing with boomer men who if they did incense was in 1970, listening to Suite Judy Blue Eyes and Eli's Coming.
Truth is, I count myself lucky that even though I have sons – three in fact who still live with me, I introduced them to incense early. They didn’t know to protest it. Being young, and accepting, and pro-mom (at that time), they were good natured about it.
Until recently.
One son, my middle son (the affable one) said: ‘We all have quirks. You have your candles and incense, for instance, which I can’t stand but I tolerate for your sake’.
Oh my.
All. This. Time. All this time he felt that way and never said. And I went around thinking, lucky me – my sons like incense, ergo there’s hope. It’s a whole new generation of men. I raised them right. See? There are masculine men who are cool about incense.
But apparently, they don’t. Not even said affable son. Who it turns out, was just being polite.
Now, anyone will tell you I anticipate remarrying one day. I know there will be compromises. I will have to share the Special K with Strawberries and not pick out all the dried strawberries just for me and I imagine there will be other adjustments. I was married once. I remember how it goes. There are deal breakers and there are shrugs and sighs. And despite how the marriage ended (i.e. it ended) I was reasonably good at it. But would the new marriage have me give up my incense? I try and conceive of a world with this (unmet) amazing guy who adores me but a place without a scent playlist of wafting green apple chamomile incense greeting me when day is done. Apricot incense when I watch Sense and Sensibility; vanilla incense when I really prefer to devour 10 Twix bars, and New Mown Hay incense when it's February and I am pining for Spring. However will I live without it? I suppose I could look for oak moss and pine incense - manly stuff, reminiscent of Irish Spring, Old Spice, and old footballs. I suppose I could burn it in the garage.
But what is it with men and incense? It's as innate as dogs chasing cats. I am convinced they dislike incense simply by rote, as a matter of some strange principal that no one remembers the rational reason for anymore. How I wish it weren't so for I love incense and I love men. Maybe when my sons have sons,those guys will get it. At least until they get to puberty and become men.....and then it's only a matter of time until one of them shrieks, "Something stinks! It's grandma's incense!'
Oh.
My.
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